Granada Spain

june 2024 [To all the posts in Spain]

Vistillas de los Ángeles El Niño on the street

The places in Granada Photo album Alhambra Palace Street art

Why did we come to Granada, Spain?

For several years now, I've been fantasizing about Andalusia, this region in southern Spain that borders Africa, which has undergone so many political changes that have made it a culturally, architecturally, gastronomically complex and wonderful area—wouldn’t you agree?

Plaza de las Pasiegas Granada — Plaza de las Pasiegas

I remember that what drew me in were the images of the city with the snowy Sierra Nevada mountains in the background and the impressive Alhambra Palace with its ancient Muslim architecture.

Granada was supposed to be our base for a few day trips in the Sierra Nevada, but after one particularly noisy night in the apartment we booked, we moved to a hotel in the city for one night and then to the village of Gojar.

Nevertheless, we managed to explore quite a bit of the city.

This picture from the Arab ancient market in Granada (Alcaiceria - the old silk market) perhaps sums up the story of the 'Moorish' conquerors, the Muslim rulers of Andalusia, and what remains of their legacy—buildings like the Alhambra Palace and undocumented immigrants or migrants from north Africa, with all their merchandise packed in fabric tied with four ropes for a quick escape from inspectors or the police...

In general, the image makes me reflect on empires and what causes their decline.

For more posts

Two days in Madrid

Seville

Córdoba

Five-day trip in the Sierra Nevada

Caminito del Rey and the white villages

We had the chance to wander around Granada several times, and this time we tried a 'free' tour that wasn’t particularly successful, and we had to drop out of it rather quickly.

This is our first time in southern Spain, and the feeling is truly different from Madrid, Barcelona, or other cities 'up north'. There is something different in the air here, some kind of eclecticism and openness, not the familiar European mold. There’s also a Mediterranean warmth that influences the way people behave, dress, and their overall mindset.

The University of Granada is considered one of the best in Spain, and in its botanical garden (Escuelas Street), we found plenty of shade from beautiful trees and also one special tree... It’s perfect for resting during the hot hours or just escaping the bustle of the city for a few minutes.

I'm always on the hunt for good coffee, espresso, or cappuccino. By chance, we came across a good coffee stand, and there was also a woman who looked African. I approached her and asked if I could take her picture, and she agreed.

As we started talking, it turned out she was an American originally from Uganda, who teaches literature at a school and is traveling, and she had also been to our region... So Dorit chatted with her in Arabic and English, and the situation was very interesting and, I must say, quite photogenic as well..."

Granada is not just the Alhambra Palace and a collection of churches and basilicas, but rather an interesting human mosaic that includes touches (like in all cities in Andalusia) from North Africa, in the form of Arabic Muslim architecture, food, music, and even palm trees, fig trees, and overall a different vibe.

Granada - Street Art

In Granada, there is a very impressive collection of street art, and quite a few local artists, as well as artists from outside the city are active here. Come with me for a moment, and you'll see:

Here on the street (42 C. Molinos) is one of the famous street art pieces by the artist El Niño.

Also here, a few meters from the previous piece on the same street, are more works by El Niño.

And here (42 C. Molinos) is another one of his works...

And here on the street (16 C. Vistillas de los Ángeles).

And even some amusing pictures like this one:

Well, let's return to 'serious' art now here in the river area (Genil) and in the streets descending to it (Realejo neighborhood), the winning combination of houses with a glorious past and advanced decay, along with street art that breathes life and colorful beauty into these houses. Here, at the address (25 Cta. Escoriaza)

For an interview held with El Niño click here

Here is another amazing painting on Sta. Escolástica Street.

The old town area of Granada is not large, and you can walk everywhere. As a central point, you can take the Plaza de las Pasiegas and also stroll through the street (Alcaiceria), a kind of Arab market (bazaar), a tourist remnant of the original silk market.

There are many fun and inviting bars and tapas bars here. One lovely place where we've sat several times is: MITICO BAR in the university square on San Jeronimo Street, which has delicious tapas and a great atmosphere.

The sun sets at ten, so the Spanish evening stretches a bit as Spaniards finish their workday and meet for a drink and tapas in the neighborhood bars for a fun family social gathering.

Additionally, drink prices are relatively low, so the outing probably won't come with any pangs of conscience…

At that time, a doll was caught in the net above the bar, quite literally…

The places are beautifully designed and very inviting. Look at this bar called Tocateja on Trinidad Street, 8, which comes out of the botanical gardens and leads to Trinidad Square.

We also went down toward the river, where we encountered a classic car exhibition on Sunday, so this is a Seat, not a Fiat 500 as I first thought, and the car owner was very proud that it was a Seat (a proud Spaniard).

The Alhambra Palace in Granada

The palace is considered the most beautiful and impressive of all the Moorish palaces in Andalusia, it truly delivers, although the Alcázar in Seville definitely gives it a serious run for its money.

The palace exemplifies Islamic architecture from the 13th-14th centuries when Granada was a sort of last Muslim vassal kingdom in Andalusia.

It's advisable to book tickets in advance on the official website here, especially during the busy tourist seasons. We arrived on an especially hot day, and it was challenging, but the place certainly compensates for any difficulties—just take a look:

Here below is a picture of the palace of Charles V, built in Renaissance style, with the moon beginning to rise above the palace roof.

The view towards the Albaicín neighborhood seen from the palace towards the city of Granada…

Places in Granada

The bar and nightlife area in the center of the old town - the university area, streets like Trinidad or San Jeronimo Street.
The Muslim market (Alcaiceria) in the cathedral neighborhood.
The river and park - a walk along the Genil River and a classic car show (on Sundays) - de la Bomba Street.
Art streets - in the Realejo neighborhood on the streets descending towards the Genil River (see street names in the body of the post).
The Alhambra Palace - a must-visit, truly a design marvel, with stunning gardens and a viewpoint over the city (Official ticket web site is here)
Albaicín neighborhood - viewed from the north of the Alhambra Palace - narrow streets with white-painted houses; many young artists live here. You will also find quite a few immigrant shops. Near San Nicolás Church is a viewpoint of the Alhambra Palace (Mirador de San Nicolás).
Sacromonte gypsy neighborhood - we did not visit - flamenco shows.
The hotel we stayed in for one night in the center - Áurea Catedral (4-star level, paid parking available).)