April 2024
[Region: Arcadia, Peloponnese || Walking between villages – overnight stays in villages || Difficulty: Moderate to hard || Duration: 5 days || Length: 75 km || Seasons: Spring, Autumn || Highlights: Blooming flowers, village accommodations, streams, forests, for experienced hikers, total ascent: 3400 meters]
Menalon trail - Introduction
We had planned to do the Menalon trail in Greece for a while. The initiative for the trail came from Dorit, she’s the planner and organizer. I thought, “Okay, a walk between villages in the central Peloponnese—what could possibly surprise me?” It sounded like something calm without the dramatic breathtaking landscapes like in the Alps or the Pyrenees, so why go there? I was pleasantly surprised. Hiking in Greece during spring is simply amazing.
This was our first time in Greece in the spring, and it changed everything. The blooming cherry and almond trees, the budding walnut trees, dense forests where you can barely see daylight, carpets of flowers, and the flowing waters in the stream valleys are just stunning! This trail can also be done during the fall with autumn colors, or in the summer for those with no other choice (though it seems too hot for me).
There’s so much to photograph here, and you need time to explore. But I knew my time was limited because this is a hike, and we needed to keep moving. You can’t stop at every moment, and Dorit’s patience, understandably, would wear thin if I took too long. So, it turned into a fast-paced nature and street photography trip, except for the spots where I declared I’d use a tripod and we agreed on a planned photo break. We only argued a little—proof being that we still slept in the same room at the end of each hiking day.
Walking as a couple can sometimes lead to disagreements or frustration, especially when the trail gets longer and our tired out bodies start to ache. But here, we felt so at peace that everything flowed as smoothly as the streams. Regardless, we were both in love with nature, expressing awe as we caught our breath on the downhill after a tough climb.
Sometimes, in travel stories, it seems like the main focus of the trail is the path and the scenery, but here the villages play an important role too. Let’s take a moment to think about what it takes to be a village in Greece. So, here's the formula: one giant plane tree in the center, at least one tavern, and a few stray cats or dogs, and you’ve got a village. The village I liked the most was actually the first one: Stemnitsa. I’m not sure why, maybe something about the topography and the elegance of the houses... The people we met were all without exception kind and welcoming.
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As we walked deeper, I felt more and more like I had come home. This sense of detachment I often talk about appeared here, whispering to me, "Hey, what more could you need? Everything you love is right here." Rushing water in the streams that I could follow for hours without getting bored, majestic trees like artistic sculptures that no human sculptor could rival, and gorgeous blooming flowers that change with every season, painting my view with vivid colors that bring pure joy and make me smile like an idiot.
Until you visit a place, you don't know it. But once you’ve been there and fallen in love, the thought creeps in that you probably won’t return again in your lifetime—and that can be a difficult feeling sometimes...
I walked with my camera, constantly searching for the next frame, which added an extra dimension of observation, especially in how the light highlights and enhances the beauty, and in the search for colors and potential shots. On the other hand, it was a bit tiring because we had to keep moving. But since I’m already a person who focuses on details and nuances, I kept looking and pushed myself a little harder—why not…
Quick tips for the Menalon Trail (All the tips are here)
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We hiked early April and barely encountered other hikers on the trail, aside from a few people and one couple that was doing the route in the opposite direction (I don’t see any particular reason to go the opposite way). It seemed like we were the only ones hiking with big backpacks, which made the hike more challenging and slower but saved us from having to arrange transportation and transfers. Plus, it gave us something to complain and grumble about on the tough climbs...
Honestly, in my imagination, I pictured the village lookouts spotting us approaching and immediately notifying the local cook to turn on the ovens, sharpen the knives, and put an apron on-here come the first tourists of the season…
Quick overview of the Menalon Trail days
Day 1 (Stemnitsa-Dimitsana)
Day 2 (Zygovisti-Elati)
Day 3 (Vytina-Nymphasia)
Day 4 (Nymphasia-Valtesiniko)
Day 5 (Valtesiniko-Lagkadia)
Menalon trail days
Day One: From Stemnitsa to Dimitsana
[Difficulty: Hard || Elevation gain: 750 m || Length: 14 km || Time: 5-6 hours || Water can be refilled at monasteries along the way]
The village of Stemnitsa is the most beautiful of the villages we passed through (though that’s just my opinion). Something about its topography and the elegance of the houses and streets made me fall in love with it right away. Like the other villages, it’s quite deserted in early April, but fortunately, the cafés and restaurants were open.
This is a photo from the morning in Stemnitsa just before the start of the trail, showing the moon set. I needed something minimalistic for my soul…
The trail begins from the center of the village, where the cafés are located. You can leave your car in the parking area near the village center. Initially, you walk along a new path on a dirt trail until you reach a sign directing left for the start of the descent. Down here is the view during the descent towards the Lousios Gorge.
It seems that the first day was the hardest, both because it was the first day of hiking and your body needs to adjust to the weight on its back, and also because we made a navigation mistake and descended into the canyon right after visiting the hanging monastery, which added at least another hour of walking and additional climbing. But we didn’t regret it because we descended into the Lousios River canyon (the picture you see here is from our encounter with the river)
After walking towards the canyon through the dense vegetation, you reach a road and a charming church with a beautiful viewpoint of the canyon in both directions. After walking on a paved path, you arrive at the hanging monastery of Prodromos. Inside, the monks are praying and provide light refreshments for visitors. You can also get water from the spring in the monastery's courtyard. After leaving the monastery, be sure to pay attention so you won't lose the trail.
Note: If you are running late or if the water museum is closed, you can still reach the village without going through the museum (there are signs).
Accommodation in Stemnitsa: Gartagani Guest House. The host Dennis is very friendly, and the place itself is very charming. Breakfast is also included in the stay. (Located on a high point in the village)
You can arrange with Dennis to leave your gear or ask where to park your car in the village, as well as get food for the rest of the day. The village has a restaurant and a café, but there is no supermarket.
Accommodation in Dimitsana: Amanites Guesthouse. The host Panos is very nice and helpful and can assist with arranging a taxi for transfers and long-term parking if needed. The accommodation includes a tasty breakfast.
The village has several restaurants and cafés, as well as a supermarket, shops for food, and souvenirs. It's worth going down to the old bridge and walking up to the upper part of the village for a great view.
Day Two: From Zygovisti to Elati
[Difficulty: Medium-Hard || Elevation gain: 700 meters || Length: 15 km || Duration: 5 hours || Bring water for the entire day]
For hikers from Dimitsana to Elati
[Difficulty: Hard || Elevation gain: 1000 meters || Length: 19 km || Duration: 6 hours]
In the morning, we took a taxi from Dimitsana to Zygovisti and started the hike from there. The full route was too long for our taste: about 19 km. From Zygovisti to Elati, the route is about 15 km. Zygovisti is a small village with an Oriental Plane tree and a taverna. In the morning, we were greeted by the taverna owner and her dog...
The first third of the route is uphill and the rest of the route (except for the climb to Elati) is downhill, sometimes steep. Most of the route is through a forest, with beautiful grassy clearings where you can stop to rest or eat.
When you arrive in Elati, you come across a cute cafe right at the end of the climb called En Elati. We had a great cappuccino with traditional orange cake and a scoop of ice cream, which was very tasty. Since we couldn’t find a place to stay in Elati, we called a taxi (the café owner helped us), and we went to sleep in Vytina. According to the cafe owner, only about 17 families live in Elati.
Accommodation in Vytina: I don't recommend the place we stayed, so I won’t write about it. Vytina is a large village with many restaurants, shops, a supermarket, and plenty of accommodation options. You’ll definitely manage.
To the beginning of Day 2
Day Three: From Vytina to Nymphasia
[Difficulty: Easy-Medium || Elevation gain: 230 meters || Length: 6 km || Duration: 3.5 hours || Vytina - Nymphasia || Bring water for the entire day]
For hikers from Elati to Nymphasia
[Difficulty: Medium || Elevation gain: 430 meters || Length: 15 km || Duration: 5 hours || Elati - Nymphasia]
We ended up staying in Vytina (there aren’t many places to stay in Elati anyway) so in the morning we decided to start the day from Vytina instead of Elati. As compensation, we walked about two kilometers down to the river towards Elati and then returned to Vytina.
The view of the river in the morning light was beautiful, and we got some great shots, which gave me a boost of energy for the rest of the day. In Vytina, we had a good morning coffee, got organized, and set off towards Nymphasia.
When we arrived at the Tzavarena Bridge (1868), I had time to set up my tripod and take pictures. By chance, three Belgian girls who were hiking with us also arrived at the bridge and decided to wade in the waters of the Mylaontas River. I caught one of them posing on a rock.
The bridge, the flowing water, and the surrounding flowers are simply mesmerizing, and both photography enthusiasts and those who aren't can spend an entire day here.
I took these photos after we arrived at our guesthouse, about 2 km from Nymphasia, and I went down to the river again. Here it was just me, the camera, and the tripod with the amazing afternoon light. I felt like a kid at a candy store for the first time. I jumped from rock to rock, searching for the right angles. There's no greater joy than photographing nature in such a beautiful place!
Accommodation in Nymphasia: Agropoli Apartments, or you can book through Booking. The place is very nice and a bit outdated, but who cares at the end of the day? It’s not located in the village but on a hill overlooking a great view. By the way, the owner is a physical education teacher and has five children. She will drive you from the center of the village, and if you want to go out to eat in the village she will also take you and then bring you back in the evening.
In the morning, you can simply start walking from the place (shortening the walk by 1.5 km). There are at least two restaurants in Nymphasia.
To the beginning of Day 3
Day Four: From Nymphasia to Valtesiniko via Magouliana
[Difficulty: Medium-Hard || Elevation gain: 730 m || Length: 15 km || Time: 5 hours || Water can be refilled at the monasteries and in Magouliana]
We left the guest-house in the morning via the road and met the trail at the bridge down the road. From there, we ascended through the forest, passing by another monastery complex (Kernitsas Monastery) and another small monastery (Sfyrida Hermitage), which was closed but had a spring at the entrance where you could refill water. We continued through the forest with its many hills until reaching the village of Magouliana, where you can eat, drink, and also rest.
More of the walk from the village through the forest, alongside streams and beautiful scenery... Pay attention to the signage (green).
The queen of the hike, everywhere and under almost every rock... though today we also encountered a large tortoise along the way.
On the ascent towards Valtesiniko (almost all the villages are reached by an "indulgent" climb, when there's hardly any energy left anyway :)
A view of Valtesiniko, almost there... Hey, it's really cold here in the evening.
After we arrived at the guesthouse and got settled, I went out to take some pictures of flowers...
Accommodation in Valtesiniko: Valtessiniko Studios. We got a two-story unit that was quiet and pleasant. The host, Aphrodite, was lovely, and her breakfast was excellent. In the evening, we ate at a taverna in the village, and it was nice and delicious. There is an open grocery store in the village and at least one restaurant.
To the start of Day 4.
Day 5: From Valtesiniko to Lagkadia
[Difficulty: Medium || Elevation gain: 470 m || Length: 12.5 km || Time: 4.5 hours || Bring water for the whole day]
The day started with an ascent from the village with a long climb of about 3 km, reaching an elevation of 1350 meters. In the forest clearings, there are beautiful views of the distant mountains and the scenery is open.
Today we descended into the village, unlike how we reached the other villages. Honestly, we got a bit lost because the signs before the descent into the village were somewhat confusing. In the end, with the kind help of a local shepherd who guided us, we found the correct path.
Right at the entrance to the village you can see the flour mill that operated during better times here...
Here is a night photo of the village from our hotel balcony.
The joy of completing the trail with a shot of ouzo – cheers! Yamas!
Accommodation in Lagkadia: At the only hotel operating here, Kentrikon Hotel. The hotel is nice with comfortable rooms and breakfast. Lagkadia has several cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops. In the morning, we took a taxi back to Dimitsana to get our car for the continuation of the trip...
To the start of Day 5.
All the tips we have on the Menalon trail Greece
When: We traveled in early April, and we had a wonderful sunny week. It was cold in the morning and evenings were around 8-10°C, and up to 22°C during the day. |
Who it’s suitable for: As mentioned, almost anyone can find a section or part of the trail that they can do. The full route is suitable for experienced long hikers with a fair level of fitness or higher. |
Clothing and Laundry:
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Food: There's excellent food in the villages where you arrive at the end of each day. In the Arcadia region, lamb is the specialty, along with chicken (no souvlaki) and other meats. The Greek salad here is the best Greek salad and arrives in huge portions in the early villages. You can’t miss the tzatziki, of course. There are delicious spinach and cheese pastries, fantastic orange cakes, and for jam and honey lovers, there's plenty of both. The yogurt is wonderful with a texture and taste unique to Greece. For lunch, we brought along some nuts, raisins, sesame sticks, orange-flavored butter cookies, and orange peels coated in chocolate. |
Water: We used hydration pouches in our backpacks (about 2 liters per day). There are days that are included where you can see the daily details regarding where you can refill or drink during the day. In all the villages, tap water is good to drink, so there's no need to buy bottled water. |
How to get there and where to finish: We rented a car at Athens airport through the website: Economy Car Rentals (convenient and inexpensive, a mid-sized car for two weeks cost 140 euros). This company acts as a middle man for many rental companies. We received a car from Surprice, whose car park is outside the airport; they provide a shuttle to the car park (10 minutes). The shuttle departs just outside the terminal to the right when exiting the arrivals hall. We drove to Stemnitsa (about 3 hours). You can also take buses via Tripoli (check, as there isn't a bus every day). Navigation by car: Waze worked excellently. Navigation on the trail: The trail is well-marked, and there are very few points where you might doubt which way to go. It is essential to follow the signs (red, yellow, green with the "m" in the middle; there are also other trails with the same colors but without the "m"). If you haven’t seen a sign after 50-100 meters of walking, you are likely off the trail. I downloaded GPX files for the trekking days from the AllTrails website and have attached them here. I used the GPX Viewer app (free) for iPhone; similar apps are available for Android. The app allows you to load the trail files and see if you are on the trail at any moment, even when disconnected from cellular service. We also bought a map of the trail at a supermarket in Dimitsana. |
Money: Credit cards or phone payments are accepted everywhere, but cash is also needed for taxis and a few shops that only operate with cash. |
Communication and Internet: I bought an Airalo eSIM for Greece, a 10GB plan for a month costing $25. Dorit purchased a local Vodafone SIM card at Athens airport for 35 euros, which included calls and a large data package, and it worked well for her too. (It seems the eSIM didn’t work on her Android phone.) |
Equipment:
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Transportation: There are taxis that operate between all the villages, so it’s easy to return by taxi to the starting point and take the rental car each day or shorten the route (as we did twice). The accommodations can help you arrange a taxi. (Taxi fares range between 10 to 25 euros, depending on the distance.) |
Route Difficulty: The route is about 75 km long with approximately 3400 meters of cumulative ascent (on average, you walk 15 km and ascend about 700 meters per day). Even without heavy backpacks, the route is not easy. To clarify, the route is not technical and does not involve boulders, ladders, or pegs; overall, the terrain is very comfortable to walk on, well-marked, and clean. However, if you carry all your gear on your back (as we did), the difficulty increases. |
Accommodation: In the villages, you can stay in guest-houses/rooms/hotels, which usually include breakfast. The wake-up time is relatively late, breakfast is from 7:30 to 9:00 AM, and then you set out. We booked all the places in advance through Booking or Airbnb. (In some places, you can save the commission and book directly.) I will provide daily details about where we stayed. All accommodations provide towels, shampoo, and soap. We stayed in simple (but good) guesthouses, but for those wanting more comfort, there are also spa hotels in some villages. |
Photography: I carried my Fujifilm XT-5 with two lenses (most of the time I used the 16-80 lens) and a lightweight tripod with a ball head. |
Menalon general map and navigation GPX files
Navigation files here courtesy of the AllTrails website, which includes all 8 original segments. There are days when segments are combined, meaning you will need to use 2 files on the same day or follow the full route.
The full route:
First segment:
Second segment:
Third segment:
Forth segment:
Fifth segment:
Sixth segment:
Seventh segment:
Eighth segment:
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